Investing In Slow Fashion: A New Way of Curating Your Closet
When I initially set out to write this post, it was all about how investment pieces (which are synonymous with expensive) are worth it and how fast-fashion is something we should avoid. Some of my thoughts have come from an overall sustainable fashion movement that’s happening around us, one that I’m very interested in. There’s more interest in wanting to know where are clothing is being made, how it’s being made, and who is making it. Along with the pull towards sustainable, ethical fashion, there has been some insight into fast-fashion brands’ (H&M, Zara, Old Navy) responsibility within the fashion cycle, their creation of waste, their lack of quality of clothing, their poor working conditions, and low payment of workers.
So as I was trying to power out the words behind what I wanted to say to you, I was on a walk with Miles and came across a podcast, writer, and book changed the trajectory of this post. It made me really start to think about how we decide what to fill up our closets with and what “investment pieces” really mean. I was compelled to jot down some questions which I thought deserved an answer:
Does investment always have to be synonymous with expensive?
Is avoiding fast-fashion altogether really the answer to a better closet?
What’s a better way of looking at “investment pieces”?
Can moving into "slow fashion” mindset include fast-fashion pieces?
Is avoiding fast-fashion altogether the answer to a better closet?
The post I came across was from Orsola de Castro, founder of Fashion Revolution and author of a book I just ordered, Loved Clothes Last and she stated:
I would argue that fast fashion isn’t badly made. I would say that the people who make our cheap clothes deserve at the very least our appreciation and that should come with honouring their work. I would say instead that fast fashion is simply made, and that means also that it is simple to repair.
As for the ‘quality’ of the materials: cheap fabrics are often synthetic, and that means they were designed to last for centuries. And what about those people in our communities who can only afford to buy cheap? How rude is that, to imply that they are wearing badly made, inferior quality clothes, but of course, if you can afford to wear - and care for - expensive mainstream luxury then that’s ok.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
The thing is, WE don’t treat cheap clothes with the same care as the designer, WE shove cheap clothes carelessly in unnecessary machine wash cycles, WE treat our clothes like shit and then complain they are badly made. We have an obligation to make all our loved clothes last.
Those words stopped me in my tracks. I had never thought about fast fashion clothing that way?? Have you? I am certainly against purchasing copious amounts of clothing or “clothing hauls” as it’s been coined from fast fashion stores but the idea that we should take care of our fast fashion clothing the way we care for or put thought into our expensive investment pieces really spoke to me. It was a revelation! I absolutely love that idea. That statement had me rethinking about what ‘investment piece’ really means. It became something greater to me. So I’ll expand on what “investing or investment” means to me when it comes to our closets and integrating the idea of slow fashion.
DOES AN INVESTMENT PIECE HAVE TO BE SYNONYMOUS WITH EXPENSIVE?
In short, No. Any here’s why. Over virtual style sessions and in-person closet edits, I’ve been helping women fine-tune their idea of what pieces they should consider as “investments”. In this way, I’ve also fine-tuned my own sartorial beliefs on “investment pieces” and it’s come down to a few key principles, which I’ll state in just a moment.
In my closet I have some amazing brands (one of which I’ll mention in a second) that make well-made, higher priced pieces. But alongside those pieces are also some pieces from fast-fashion brands. And you know what? Those pieces receive the same amount of wear-time as the high priced pieces. After some careful thought, I laid out three principles that make ALL of those pieces my investment pieces, no matter the price point.
WHAT’S A BETTER WAY OF LOOKING AT WHAT MAKES AN INVESTMENT PIECE?
If you want to make fewer, better decisions about what you bring into my closet, whether it’s high-priced or not, here are three important principles to apply:
Know the story behind the brand or piece. What’s the brand’s mission? Was this a piece you sought out? Did it speak to you? Align with your style descriptors? Do you know how the brand started? Where the clothing is made? If they pay workers a living wage?
Love the feel of the piece when you’re wearing it (and also love how it makes you feel!).
Take care of the garment. Mend it, hem it, clean it, and store it properly, regardless of price. If you’re wearing it over and over again, you’ve invested in the right piece. This is the meaning of a true investment piece.
I have to tell you that using those three principals has really helped to guide my purchases. I’m being more thoughtful and intentional about what comes into my closet. And I’m considering most of my pieces, “investments”. Do I shop at fast-fashion stores? And can you? In short, yes. But being more mindful of making fewer purchases and really loving the piece(s) when you try them on will move you into a slow fashion mindset.
KNOWING A BRAND’s MISSION
Here’s an example of one of the principles in practice. Before I buy something from a brand online, I head to their site and find their about page. Often, this is where they share their story, their mission, and what, if any, initiatives they’re putting into practice (sustainability, wage transparency, inclusive sizing, green initiatives, etc.). Doing this makes me feel more connected to a brand and thus, appreciate the pieces I purchase way more. Lately, I’ve been investing in a few pieces from Jenni Kayne. Namely, Jenni Kayne sweaters and shoes. I’ve learned about the brand and love the feel of the pieces when they’re on me. This part of their sustainability mission resonates with me;
‘We have always valued slow fashion, natural fibers, local production, and fair working conditions.’
Knowing that the brand values match what I’m trying to focus on in my own style mission makes me more likely to recommend them to a client or a friend. For those who aren’t in a place to purchase higher-priced pieces, I often recommend looking second hand on sites like Poshmark, who offer pieces at lower price points.
Can moving into "slow fashion” mindset include fast-fashion pieces?
Fast Fashion brands (Zara, Old Navy, Target, H&M) get a bad wrap for a lot of reasons. They provide mass produced clothing at low, low prices. Because of our human demand for immediate access to trendy clothing on the ready, fast fashion brands tend to cycle out clothing multiple times a month while creating copious amounts of waste and paying their workers wages so low, they cannot survive on the income.
This is not to say that some fast fashion brands cannot live by the same set of rules as ethical, sustainable, smaller brands. They can. And should. But that would require more of us living a slow fashion mindset and them slowing down the fashion cycle. I don’t think it would be as profitable for them in the end. This is also not to say that you cannot have great pieces from fast fashion brands. You can! And if that’s what is in the budget for you right now, just take the time to try them on and make them adhere to some, if not all, of those principles above. Avoid going into a fast-fashion store with the “haul” mentality in mind.
So, What’s the right Answer?
The answer is slowing down on clothing purchases, I call it slow fashion. Slow fashion can include the less is more idea, purchasing ‘investment’ pieces, that include a combination of high priced and low priced investment pieces. Some of my favorite layers are from Zara and J.Crew and I’ve had them for years. I’ve even found some of those pieces secondhand. But I went in with a fine-tooth comb and really paid attention to what I was looking for and tried to purchase as few items as possible.
What is most important when it comes to thinking about “investment pieces” is changing our mindset to think about investing in fewer items (whether purchasing new or secondhand, budget or high-priced) and taking care of the items we invest in for as long as we can. Along with that, knowing the story behind the brand so you also have transparency about wages for their workers too, perhaps. This is what I call slow fashion and it’s important to “invest” in that.
**This post was written on a topic I care very much about. The outfit pieces are from Jenni Kayne and I work on partnerships with them. I’m wearing the Cashmere Fisherman Hoodie in grey and the Cable Knit Cocoon Cardigan in grey. If you are at a place where you want to purchase a piece from the brand, you are welcome to use code CONNI15 for 15% off. If you find you love sourcing secondhand, Jenni Kayne on Poshmark is a great place to start.
